Birkin Leather Options

One of the beauties about a birkin is the wide variety of leather options a birkin can come in. Each leather that a birkin is available in is different and unique. Two birkins in the same size and color can look completely different from one another if they are different leather types.

There is such a wide variety of leather options that it can all get very confusing for someone new to Hermes. This entry is meant to help educated all Hermes lovers on the leather options Hermes offers. Enjoy!

Non-Exotic Leather

BOX CALF, BLACK
The quintessential Hermes leather. A veau, or calf leather, this leather has been around since Hermes has been making handbags. It is a smooth leather with a glossy finish that is susceptible to scratches. However, the scratches eventually blend into one glossy mirror-like patina, that box afficionados crave. Care must be taken with this leather when raining, if the raindrops are not wiped off, the leather will blister. Under the right care, box calf can last for generations.

CHAMONIX
The matte version of boxcalf. This leather handles scratches better than boxcalf, but is worse in the rain, with a greater tendency to blister. The finish applied to this leather gives it an almost plastic appearance. The picture below appears to have a gloss, do not be mislead, it is matte.

BARENIA NATURAL
The original saddle leather. This leather is double tanned in chrome and vegetable dyes and then soaked in a mix of nine different oils over a 5 to 6 week process. The process causes the leather fibers to soak up all the oils. This leaves the leather with an interesting characteristic. When scratched, the scratches can be rubbed off with a few swipes of your finger, because Barenia can absorb the oils. Also, when rained upon, the water droplets will eventually evaporate. There is no aniline finish, therefore, this leather will develop a patina.

PEAU PORC
Another of Hermes's classic leathers, but retired during the last 10 years. A long lasting durable leather that can last generations if maintained. It is lightweight. This leather is available matte or lisse and can be dyed. Horrible in rain, this leather will blister.

VACHE NATURAL
A vache is the hide of a mature cow. This is another of Hermes's classic leathers, showing up in vintage pieces over 50 years old. This leather is untreated and colored with vegetable dyes. It has a smooth finish. Because it is untreated it will darken at the handles from use, can stain readily, and care must be taken when carried in the rain as it is prone to spotting. For these reasons, I do not consider it a leather for the faint-hearted nor is it for the novice leather afficionado, but this leather when maintained properly will age into the most beautiful patina and can last several decades.

CHEVRE de COROMANDEL
Goathide that is characterized by its pronounced spine pattern down the middle of the skin. Like most goathides, it is lightweight, scratch resistant, and has a sheen to the surface that gives the skin an iridescence. It absorbs color well.

CHEVRE MYSORE
Another goathide but with a less pronounced spine pattern than coromandel. Lightweight, scratch resistant, and iridescent, it is known for making colors "pop". ETA : grains are more refined than coromandel.

VACHE LIEGEE
An adult cowhide, this is a natural grained leather. It has been stated on this forum that the leather is stretched in 8 different directions. Apparently this process gives the leather its rigidity, which is why its touted as being as durable as box. The two-tone effect is a result of a 2 dye process. The grain makes this leather scratch resistant, but care must be taken in avoiding deep scratches. The 2 tone effect will be difficult to regain with deep scratches.

TOGO
Baby calf leather, a veau. To some it is heavy. Others find the aroma heavenly. It is a soft leather, but not as much as clemence. To many, one of the hallmarks of togo is veining. However, togo can be veined or unveined. It is a finer grain than clemence, and slightly more pronounced. It is scratchproof and can be refurbished to almost as good as new.

CLEMENCE
Official name is veau taurillon clemence. It is baby bull and heavy. Perhaps the leather with most slouch to it. It is a broader, flatter grain. The grain has a tendency to come to the surface and this is evidenced by cracking of the resin along the edges of the bag. Around since the 1980's, it is becoming a classic. Another of the Hermes leathers that can be refurbished to almost as good as new.

If you don't wipe the bag down after it gets wet, the blisters can become permanent. You musn't allow the fibers to become saturated with water, otherwise they will plump up.

EPSOM
This is an embossed leather, in other words the pattern is imprinted into the leather and what you see is not its natural grain. The process of embossing compresses the leather and gives the leather some rigidity. This is a phenomenon common to all the embossed leathers and to the stretched ones as well. Epsom appears to be laminated as it is easy to clean with a damp cloth, which is one of the advantages to this leather. In addition, it is lightweight.

COURCHEVEL
Now only seen in small accessories, this leather is very similar to epson in appearance. Another embossed leather, it has the same properties as epson. It is lightweight and easy to clean. The slight difference is that courchevel is shinier and darker at the top of the grain. I believe it may be dyed in a 2 dye process and then treated with a laminate.

AGNEAU
Lambskin. Very soft with a gentle hand. It is prone to scratches but ages well with a slight patina and slight greying around the edges. It is used in gloves and the linings of the jige elan, some small leather goods, maharani, and many vintage clutches, as well as the bolide and selected white bags. It is also used in Carmen keyring and carmencita series bookmarks.

GULLIVER/SWIFT
I am clumping these two leathers together, because they are one and the same. Gulliver was retired around 7 years ago and brought back within the last year. This time it was renamed Swift. Does anyone see the connection between the two leathers? Hint: Who wrote Gulliver's Travels. Anyway, it is a soft leather with a gentle hand and a fine grain. One of its best qualities is that it is great at absorbing the dyes and the brighter colors come to life in this leather. The fine grain seems to reflect light in such a way that the colors are almost iridescent. While it can scratch more easily than clemence and togo the scratches can be rubbed off with your finger. Deeper scratches can be refurbished with a condition at Hermes and brought back to almost new. I find this a resilient leather.

EVERGRAIN
This leather leaves me baffled. I was informed it is embossed evercalf. However, it does not have the stiffness of the embossed leathers. Instead it is soft and silky to the touch. It has a very fine grain to it. Because the grains are not so coarse, this leather can show scratches, but I find that scratches can be rubbed away with a finger.

VEAU GRAIN LISSE, VGL
This leather reminds me of epsom and courchevel. They are both embossed or altered leathers. The difference is that veau grain lisse has less angular, rounder grains. The dyeing process may be similar to courchevel because the top of the grain dyes slightly darker than the crevices. It is probably laminated as well, making this leather easy to clean.

FJORD
A vache, or adult cow hide. It has a wider, flatter grain than togo or clemence. Somewhat heavier as well. It has the advantage of repelling water off its surface. I have seen this bag in rain and the droplets have slid off.

VEAU GRAIN LONG
This is a discontinued baby cowhide, probably embossed. It is being listed for the benefit of the vintage collectors for easier identification.

EVERCALF
Similar in grain to box, but much softer in feel.

Per the store- once there are scratches on evercalf, the bag can not be refurbished in the same manner as box leather, even though these two skins look similar.

Exotic Skins

OSTRICH
Species Struthio Camellus, farmed in South Africa. Can come matte. This is a dynamic leather that will darken from contact with your hands and also lighten with exposure to light. It is effective in rain as the surface can be wiped down with a cloth with no marks or residue. It ages well and will develop a patina over time. If maintained properly it can last decades. It should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling overseas.

CROCODYLUS NILOTICUS MATTE
Known as Nile crocodile, farmed in Zimbabwe, and denoted by .. The following picture is matte skin. Matte skins are finished simply by rubbing with felt, thereby necessitating that the skins be the best available as every blemish will be evident. The same care for matte croc skins as shiny skins must be observed under wet conditions. If wet or stained the defect can remain permanently. Again CITES certificates are provided with the bag and should be carried during travel.


CROCODYLUS POROSUS ~ Shiney
This leather is designated by a ^. Farmed in Australia. Considered by many to be the premier Hermes leather and noted for its fine, symmetrical scale pattern. It does not come glazed, rather the shine comes from repeated buffing of the skin with a stone until it reaches a sheen. Because it is not treated, it does not do well in rain. While the crocodile skins can be glazed, it is not recommended that it be done more than twice. The reason being that the uneven texture of the skin will leave the glaze uneven on its surface, which may eventually peel and flake with time. Being an exotic, it should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling.

CROCODYLUS NILOTICUS ~ SHINEY
Also known as Nile crocodile and farmed in Zimbabwe. Designated by .. Recognized by its larger scale pattern than porosus. It does not come glazed, rather the shine comes from repeated buffing of the skin with a stone until it reaches a sheen. Because it is not treated, it does not do well in rain. Glazing should not be done more than twice. The reason being that the uneven texture of the skin will leave the glaze uneven on its surface, which may eventually peel and flake with time. Being an exotic, it should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling.

ALLIGATOR
Species Alligator mississippiensis. Farmed in Florida and denoted by a square. Alligator can be differentiated from crocodile by the lack of the "pore" found in crocodile. This pore would have held the ciliary sense organ in the live croc. Also, alligator would have an umbilication in the center of the belly. The swatches below shows the skin in the matte and the shiny form. Like crocodile, it too is buffed with a stone to get its sheen. The same rules for glazing and rain apply to this skin as well.

Non-Leather Options
ETOILE, TOILE
Linen, usually used in conjunction with a leather on the bags. Weave is similar in strength and appearance to firehose material

CANVAS
Another cloth that is usually combined with a leather in creating bags.

VIBRATO
This pattern is created by gluing alternating layers of leather in different colors under high pressure. It is usually used in combination with another leather, most commonly box, in bags. It is also used in small accessories such as coin purses. This should come with a special eraser to keep the leather clean between refurbishings at the store.

CRINOLINE
A woven material used in conjunction with leather in bags. Crinoline is a ribbed weave of horsehair and linen. While very strong, it is most durable on rigid constructed bags such as the kelly. Individual horse hairs can break with use, though this does not interfere with the integrity of the bag itself. Pictures here include the kind of damage seen in crinolline in an unstructured bag such as the market bag. Bags of this construction are usually lined in herringbone linen.

Thank to the wonderful people at TPF Hermes for all of this wonderful information.